These are not easy days for small independent labels, which are shouldering the weight of shrinking fashion appetites and dwindling resources. Lutz Huelle, ever pragmatic, skipped the runway in favor of a showroom presentation; his fall offer is already on the racks, no waiting required. Like many of his peers, he spun the idea of a uniform into the collection, though in times like these, the word risks conjuring images of marching boots rather than chic tailoring.
In fashion-speak, the uniform has little to do with drill sergeants and more to do with ease: a way of dressing that’s simple, unfussy, and polished enough to look soigné without ever sliding into the banal. It frees you to get on with your day, blissfully untroubled by appearance anxieties. Huelle tapped into this spirit with a wardrobe of versatile pieces that mix and match in a flash, bringing a welcome jolt of wit and panache to the everyday, all without seeming to try too hard.
There’s nothing remotely “basic” about Huelle’s take on quotidian dressing. Instead, he indulges in a kind of gentle hybridization—think corsetry spliced into an elongated blazer to cinch the waist; or a padded bomber that has zippers on the side that can be opened to make the shape less bulky, allowing to put your hands in the pockets more easily; or a bourgeois tweed jacket unexpectedly fused with a utilitarian safari parka. “Clothes send a strong message about who you are,” Huelle noted. “This piece says: ‘I’m a touch bon ton, but I’ve also got the spirit of an explorer.’ There’s never just one side to a personality. And I believe that clothes are like a language and every piece of clothing is like a word in a sentence.”
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