Following a two-year hiatus, Tomo Koizumi is circling back to fashion. “I was thinking I would do something different, like painting,” the designer explained via video from China. He staged a gallery show in Tokyo during his break, but fashion’s lure proved too great—partly from exasperation at seeing tulle copycats of his work, but also because he hit on a bright idea for brides-to-be: letting them flaunt their true colors.
“Neutrals are really boring. A wedding is the bride’s time to shine,” the designer said, adding that he had fielded requests from brides all over the world in recent years, but couldn’t fulfill them because he wasn’t ready. Now, he’s decided the time is right to play on the Asian custom of renting bridal gowns to offer bright colors, big volumes and the freedom to mix and match separates as they wish. “Not only is it sustainable and more affordable, but brides can try something different from normal life, and I loved that idea,” he said.
Koizumi is starting small, with a tight lineup of voluminous skirts fashioned from some 80 meters of Japanese organza, and embellished bustiers, some upcycled from the traditional kimono that fewer brides choose to wear these days. The added perk, of course, is that such pieces need not only be worn for weddings: they would be equally appropriate for other special occasions, like gala events and the red carpet.
For now, the designer plans to unveil one collection a year, in keeping with a slower fashion philosophy. Meanwhile, he is also focusing on statement accessories, like a doughnut-shaped sateen purse inspired by puff sleeves and long gloves with 3D-embroidered roses. Last month, he unveiled a sneaker collaboration with Nike at Dover Street Market in Ginza, featuring an iridescent upper, changeable Swooshes and ruffled or sparkly attachments for a “fun factor.” That project also offered the designer a new hobby: having met the Jamaican sprinter Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce during the campaign shoot, he now runs 5 to 7k daily. “It lets me see the city, wherever I am. And it’s better than going to the gym,” he said.
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