Like many menswear designers, Attachment’s Koki Enomoto was thinking about lightness and levity in the run up to this season. How could he loosen up Attachment’s uber-restrained brand of minimalism, and give it a dash of summery sprezzatura?
To help, he looked at Giorgio Armani’s seminal soft tailoring in the 1980s, and landed on Richard Gere’s wardrobe in American Gigolo (a perennially popular menswear touchpoint) as a reference. “It was a relaxed but formal look…the casual way of dressing in that era looked really cool,” said Enomoto at a showroom appointment in Tokyo. “This time we wanted to express that relaxed image of a man.” He named the collection Easily.
The result was a strong showing of menswear staples that felt exactly right for the moment. Reimagining 1980s suit jackets, Enomoto removed the power shoulders and linings to create silhouettes that were much softer but no less commanding. “In a sense we’re remaking it or updating it to fit with the times, especially by adding soft fabrics.” Tactile silk-cashmere sweaters were another focus, and looked as fantastic when tried on in the showroom as they did on the runway. Shout out for the colors, too: coral, amber, charcoal, sky blue, brown—everything was as soft on the eye as on the skin.
Enomoto—who took over Attachment from the late designer Kazuyuki Kumagai in 2022—is skilled at putting out collections that feel on-trend but not try-hard. Take the open-toed leather sandals (crucially not flip-flops), the neckties tossed over the left shoulder, or the silky pajama shirts worn with tight black boxer shorts. In-keeping with the mood of menswear at large, these sensual flourishes show that Enomoto and his team have their finger on menswear’s fast-beating pulse and, more importantly, are able to add their own flavor to it.
Considering how well many of these pieces would slip into (and improve) a contemporary man’s wardrobe, the collection lived up to its title. Good casting, good styling, good clothes. One of Enomoto’s best yet? Easily.
#Attachment #Tokyo #Spring #Collection
